Complete Guide to Kurunegala

A few years ago, when a former editor told me to go cover Kurunegala for an assignment, my heart sank. What was there to DO in Kurunegala? I was sure I’d be reduced to tears of boredom within seconds. (This is not at ALL a dramatic line of thinking for me, btw. In case you missed this about me, I am no stranger to hating on places for no good reason.)

Boredom-Induced Tears wasn’t a legit reason to turn down the assignment. So, like a responsible adult I most certainly am not… I took myself, my Pity-Party-for-One and my Irrational-Dislike-of-Places-That-Have-Done-No-Wrong off to Kurunegala. In my bag was a life-time supply of tissues for all the tears I was certain I’d shed. I did not have any high hopes for the day.

Did Kurunegala Exceed Expectations?

Yep. Honestly, I should be used to it by now. Every time I decided to look down on a place… Just Because… it proves me wrong. I expected Kurunegala to be boring. It was supposed to be nothing but a town with a few old temples. And once you see ONE old temple… Sure, there were old temples. PLENTY of them. But I also found several other things to do in Kurunegala besides being a reluctant temple visitor! So that was cool.

Things to do in Kurunegala

The thing is… … the minute you get to Kurunegala, you can’t avoid noticing the giant Buddha statue on top of a huge granite rock. And that sets the tone for what you can do in Kurunegala. Visit a LOT of temples. Try hard enough (or ask a local or two. Your choice), and you can find non-temple-y places to explore too!

Yapahuwa

After whining so much about temples, I’ll avoid a bout of hypocrisy/irony by not mentioning one first.

Yapahuwa is an ancient rock fortress. It was also a powerful kingdom once. Now, all that remains is a few proud ruins that hint at a more prosperous history.

Be that as it may, the ruins are unlike anything you’ll find in Anuradhapura or Polonnaruwa. There’s not much to explore. But don’t let that stop you.

At the site, you can see several interesting ruins, like this staircase that leads nowhere. NOW.

Once upon a time, though, it gave access to a temple that enshrined the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha. You can also enjoy several panoramic vantages of the landscape from Yapahuwa.

The ruined fortress sits just over an hour away from Kurunegala. So if you want something interesting to do, go explore an ancient not-so-crumbling-ruin. Perhaps let your inner child have a go at playing Indiana Jones?

Silver Temple

One of the reasons for my reluctant visit to Kurunegala that time was to explore the Silver Temple. Or, as Sri Lankans call it – the Ridee Viharaya.

Now, I knew a bit about the temple. Mainly that it was older than “old”. It also gets associated with King Dutugemunu, an Anuradhapura-era king credited with uniting the island for the first time under one banner. Beyond that, I knew nothing.

The first thing that you note is the silence. Not in a disturbing we-are-in-a-horror-movie way. It’s the absence of… humanity (?) for lack of a better word. The temple sits away from the town, so the usual sounds of honking vehicles, music, voices, etc is gone. You just hear nature – the call of a bird, wind rustling through leaves… it’s peaceful, really.

The second thing that calls your attention is the absolute age and history of the temple. The past peeks through every single cave painting, statue and ruin you see.

Panduwasnuwara

It’s funny how… ancient most things in Kurunegala are.

Don’t get me wrong, the town itself is pretty modern. But everything worth doing and seeing in Kurunegala is, well, old.

Take Panduwasnuwara.

It’s another ancient capital of Sri Lanka. How ancient? King Parakramabahu (don’t worry about not knowing who he is. We have a LOT of kings here in Sri Lanka) set up the capital in the 12th century.

Panduwasnuwara often remains under the radar. You have to already know about it to visit since it doesn’t appear in many search engines. Not listed on the first page, at least.

It’s about an hour away, so if you want something to do away from Kurunegala, check it out.

It’s a former kingdom/capital, not that you’d be able to tell. All that remains are remnants of a palace and a monastery with a ruined rampart.

Still, it IS a fascinating glimpse into Sri Lanka’s lesser known capitals and kingdoms.

Arankele Monastery

If you are like me, and struggle to appreciate old stupas after about the third in a row… The Arankele Monastery will be more to your tastes.

Established roughly in the sixth century, the monastery is in the middle of a forest. So your dash of spirituality comes with a side of adventure. A perfect balance.

Kurunegala town can be tedious, with its 21st century bustle. Since Arankele is about 45 minutes away, escaping to the forest is the perfect solution!

Since the monastery is deep within the folds of the canopied trees, it feels like you went back in time. The only sounds that reach you are the sounds of monkeys and birds. So the monks that used to meditate in the caves must have felt it was the perfect location for a monastery.

Again, you have to know it’s there to visit it.

Elephant Rock

From the right perspective, the funny rock near Kurunegala looks like an elephant. So is it any wonder that people called it “elephant rock”?

I wouldn’t recommend climbing it at noon. To say the experience would be hellish is putting it mildly.

But in the early morning or evening, climbing it is a great thing to do in Kurunegala. Not for any particular reason to do with the rock itself. Apart from an eerie resemblance to a rock, it’s utterly unremarkable.

It does, however, offer amazing views of the town. Since most of Kurunegala is pretty flat, you can see the landscape clearly.

Panavitiya Ambalama

This next thing to do in Kurunegala is perfect for travellers. It’s… wait for it…

An ancient resting place where weary travellers could regain their energy. That’s pretty much what an ambalama is.

Back when kings established the ambalama concept, they were thinking of people travelling on foot. Nowadays, it’s appreciated more for the artistry that went into its construction.

Wooden pillars prop up the roof of the simple structure. There is nothing simple about these pillars, though. Rather, elaborately carved designs, patterns and figures adorn them from top to bottom. Even if you don’t rest at the ambalama, go there just to look at these carvings. Since Panavitiya is about 40 minutes away from Kurunegala, it’s the perfect thing to do on a lazy afternoon.

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